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Custom Jewellery-The Custom Order Process

A suite of custom ordered jewellery from BVLA

Hi Folks! Today I am taking over the blog to demystify the process of ordering custom jewellery through Rogue Piercing.

Almost any piece of jewellery we sell can be ordered to your custom specifications. You need a Neometal threadless labret in a certain size we don’t normally carry? We can custom order one in for you. You need a full suite of BVLA jewellery for your wedding in 2022? We can custom order that for you. You can read a post about my favourite pieces of custom jewellery here.

A Suite of BVLA items custom-ordered with Rogue Piercing. From left: ‘Integrity’ with Clear Swarovski, ‘Pave Tear’ with Grey AA Diamond, and ‘Marquise Fan.’

Custom Jewellery- How the Process Works

  1. Making Contact

Let’s follow through and say you would like a full suite of BVLA items for your piercings in time for your wedding day in 2022. Your first port of call would be to email our jewellery manager Kat at kat@roguepiercing.co.uk or send us a DM through our instagram @roguepiercing

  1. Sharing Ideas

You may only have a rough idea of what you want- 18ct Yellow Gold and purple stones? From that, Kat will work with you and guide you through all the options for you. Do you want pieces that are large and in charge? Do you want a lot of solid metals or do you want the gems to do the talking? Once you have decided on a style, Kat will come back to you with a list of pieces she thinks you would love. If you need more inspiration, you would head to the companies website at BVLA, Anatometal or Industrial Strength and peruse their options.

  1. Deposits and Balances 

Kat will then give you a quote on the total cost of your order. Often we will take a 50% deposit in order to go through with the order but we can take as little as 25% if you are a regular client of ours.

Once this deposit is paid, you have 6 months from the date of order to fully pay the rest of the balance. Some clients will pay in as little as £5 or £10 a week! However most people will pay the other 50% of the balance once the jewellery has arrived with us prior to having it fitted. We are totally understanding of any clients undergoing financial stress as a result of the pandemic. We know that custom-made jewellery can be a source of joy and so we are happy to extend the 6 month payment date for clients who need that extra time. 

A custom-ordered BVLA ‘Coffin’ in 14k Yellow Gold set with Genuine AA Garnet.
  1. Checking and Double-Checking!

From here, Kat will write up a custom order sheet that covers each item in detail to make sure every single piece is exact to your specifications.

You get to double check all the intricacies of each of your items. We then check again to make sure you are happy. Kat will send you a link to your custom order payment screen on our website, roguepiercing.co.uk.

Here is an example of what you would be looking at!

An example of your custom order payment screen!

Once you are happy, you can add this custom payment to your basket and check out as normal. You may need to book for piercings too. You can go to roguepiercing.co.uk/book-now and pay for everything all at once.

  1. Manufacture

Each company we work with has a different ‘lead time,’ or how long it takes to make your jewellery. Since each item is made to order, it can take a little bit of time. Commonly orders from Industrial Strength or Anatometal can take between 6 and 8 weeks, and orders from BVLA commonly take between 12 and 14 weeks. It must be mentioned that due to the ongoing COVID-19 Pandemic, these lead times are only guidelines. Each company is working hard to make sure that your jewellery gets out to you in a timely manner, and we thank them for that!

  1. Arrival!

The next step is the exciting day that your jewellery arrives with us. This is one of our favourite parts of the whole process- This is many months of work finally coming to fruition! First we check that everything has arrived safely and to our clients specification, and then we get in touch. Normally we will send an email and give you a phone call to let you know it’s time to book in to get your jewellery fitted! After you have booked in, we take some of those stunning photos you are all used to seeing on our website and instagram. After we fit the jewellery for you, we take some more snazzy photos and you are ready to go!

BVLA ‘Single Swirl’ in 14k Yellow Gold and genuine London Blue Topaz

To conclude…

Our favourite part of the whole process is the happiness we see in your faces when you see your dream jewellery finally sitting prettily in your piercings. That moment makes all the work worthwhile for us.

I hope this has demystified the process of custom ordering jewellery for you all. As always, I am happy to respond to any queries you may have.

A BVLA Custom Suite. From left, ‘Gaia’ set with genuine Green Tourmaline and clear CZ, ‘Reema’ set with Peach Topaz, and ‘Mini Kandy’ set with 1.5mm Seafoam Tourmaline.
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High Quality? Part 20 – Gem Settings

Gem settings are how jewellery manufacturers make sure the gems in jewellery don’t fall out. There are different types of gem settings and each has its pros and cons as well as bringing a different style to the final piece. This week we will show some of the different settings and their pros and cons.

Bezel

An Industrial Strength Bezel Set Synthetic Pink Opal – available here

Bezel settings give one of the simplest and cleanest styles of all the gem settings but don’t let their simple look hide their hidden complexities. Simply put a bezel setting is a cup or box that a gem sits inside, and the top lip of the cup or box is rolled over to hold the gem in place. This could be something as simple as a standard round gem or something more complex like an asymmetric piece. Bezel settings are great for initial piercings as they have less snag risk than other options and, when well-made, will have nowhere for crusties to build up and dull the gems shine. As the gem is enclosed in the setting, bezel set gems don’t shine as much as other options. When mass manufactured bezel settings require calibrated gems (gems cut to tight measurement tolerances) and a high level of quality control to ensure gems do not move or spin.

Pros

  • Minimal snag risk
  • Can hold asymmetric gems
  • Cleaner for initial piercing

Cons

  • Gems can spin if not set correctly
  • Gems aren’t as bright due to being enclosed
  • Jewellery has to be deeper to enclose the gem

Prong/Claw

A Neometal Prong Set Ocean Grey Swarovski – Available here

Prong and Claw settings are two names for holding a gem in place using small pieces of metal around the gem like claws. Prong and Claw are interchangeable terms. These settings are perfect for making gems shine and sparkle as the light can enter the gem from all sides. Prong/Claw settings are capable of holding both large and small gems but at smaller sizes the gem can get obscured by the setting or not have enough metal for a strong setting. Due to requiring less metal to hold the gem securely, prong set jewellery can be made smaller so are perfect for daintier options.

Pros

  • Lots of light play
  • Can hold asymmetric gems
  • Gives a lighter and daintier look due to less metal

Cons

  • More attentive cleaning regime required
  • Can obscure smaller stones
  • More expensive due to highly skilled practitioner required

Pavé

A BVLA Pavé set Swarovski Snowflake – available here

Pavé settings are pure decadence as an entire surface is covered with gemstones. To achieve this lots of small settings halfway between a bezel and a claw must be made. This is the setting choice for those that really want their jewellery to stand out and to show off the gemstones more than the metal. By embedding the gemstones into the jewellery the jewellery will need to be slightly deeper. Snag risk is low to medium with this setting as the settings are low to the metal surface, but there are lots of them.

Pros

  • Lots of gems can be placed tight together to create a unique style
  • Minimal metal is visible for a more gem based style

Cons

  • An extremely skilled stone setter is required
  • If the setting becomes damaged multiple gems can be lost

Channel

An Industrial Strength Channel Set Clear Swarovski End – Available here

Channel settings involve cutting grooves into a channel so that multiple stones share the same setting. This is a very secure method of holding gems but requires very accurately made gemstones and jewellery. As the gems and setting are completely enclosed the snag risk is very low with these. Due to the open space between the gems channel settings allow a fair amount of light play and sparkle but can allow build up of crusties so require careful cleaning.

Pros

  • Lots of sparkle
  • Minimal snag risk
  • Durable design for high friction areas

Cons

  • Cleaning can be tricky if crusties build up
  • Not many manufacturers available for body jewellery
  • Calibrated gems are required

There are many variations on these settings and some jewellery will contain multiple different types of setting. If you are unsure about which settings will work well for you and your piercings then get in touch and let us know what you’re thinking. We will be glad to help you find the jewellery of your dreams.

That’s all for this week but we’ll be back next week with more piercing and jewellery knowledge.